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Philea

Upper Egypt. – Governorate: Aswan.

ACCESS. – By road from Aswan to landing-stage 4miles/6 km S, then boat (individually hired or group excursion) to the island to Agilka.

Once renowned as the ‘pearl of Egypt” by virtue of its rich vegetation and its magnificent assemblage of temples, the island of Philae now lies beneath the waters of Lake Nasser; but fortunately, thanks to a spectacular rescue operation carried through with financial and technical assistance from Italy and West Germany, it was possible to save at least the most important monuments and re-erect them on the higher neighboring island of Agilka.

History.-The ancient Egyptian name of Pihlae was Pi-lak, from which the Greek and Latin Philae, the Coptic Pilakh (‘corner”) and the Arabic Bilak were derived. It was known to the local people as El-Qasr, the “Cstle”, or as Geziret Anas el-Wogud, after the hero of one of the tales in the “Arabian Nights” who traced his beloved to the island, where she had been locked up by her father,only to find that she had escaped: whereupon further adventures and further trails followed before the lovers were reunited.

Herodotus, who visited Elephantine about 450 B.C., makes no mention of Philae. The oldest surviving temple buildings date from the time of Nectanebo I (c.370 B.C.), but there were undoubtedly earlier temples on the site. The principal deity was Isis, but Osiris, Nephthys, Hathor and the cataract gods Khnum and Statet were also venerated here. The imposing buildings now to be seen were erected by the Ptolemies in the last two centuries B.C. and by the Roman Emperors in the first three centuries A.D. Many inscriptions show that pilgrims flocked to Philae in Greek and Roman times to pay homage to the mysterious and benign Isis, goddess of healing. She was also revered by the predatory Nubians and Blemmyes, whose priests were still permitted, even aftertheir defeat at the hands of the Emperor Marcian in A.D. 451, to make offerings to Isis together with the Egyptian priests and on special occasions to retain the image of the goddess in their keeping. Long after the introduction of Christianity the Nubians remained faithful to the cult of Isis, and it was only in the time of Justinian (527-565) that the temples were closed and some of their chambers converted for use in Christian worship. From then until the coming of Islam a Coptic town flourished on the island.

Until the construction of the first Aswan Dam the island ranked as one of the most beautiful places in Egypt and attracted large numbers of visitors every year. Thereafter it lost much of its charm, since it was under water for the greater part of the year and the temples were accessible only between August and December. Then, more recently, the High Dam project threatened to engulf them for good. They were saved from this fate by the great international rescue operation sponsored by Unesco and carried out between 1972and 1980. The island of Philae was drained; then a new site was prepared on the neighboring island of Agilka, the temples were broken up into sections, which were carefully numbered, and they were then re-erected in the same relative positions on Aglika. The gray coloring of the lower part of the walls and columns still shows the effect of their annual immersion over the period between the construction of the two dams, and the vegetation on Agilka is very sparse;  but the imposing and magnificently preserved temples of Philae still retain their power to impress.

The Temples. - The great ** Temple of Isis is oriented from S to N, the main entrance to the temple precinct being at its S end, through the hall of Nectanebo I. this was originally the vestibule of a temple dedicated by Nectanebo to “his mother Isis, mistress of Philae, revered in the Abaton Shrine”, and to Hthor of Senmet which was soon afterwards swept away by the inundation of the Nile and was later completely rebuilt by Ptolemy II Philadelphus. This elegant structure had 14 columns with varying floral capitals surmounted by sistrum capitals. Only six columns remain, and nothing is left of the roof.

Between the columns are screens some 6 ½ ft/3 m high topped by cavetto cornices and frieze of royal cobras and decorated with reliefs of Nectanebo making offerings; at three points there were doorways through the screens.

On the river front the temple are two obelisks (unusually, of sandstone and not the normal granite) set on rectangular bases. The one on the W, which has one Greek and several Arabic inscriptions, is still standing, though it has lost its apex; only the base of the other one remains.

The Hall of Nectanebo leads into the large Outer Court of the temple,bounded on the N by the first pylon and on the E and W by colonnades; it dates from the end of the Ptolemaic period or the reign of Augustus. Here can be seen a section of the solid embankment wall which presumably enclosed the main part of the island and was interrupted at several points by steps leading dwon to the water.

The West Colonnade, which runs along the river side of the court, is 305 ft/93 m long and has 31 (originally 32) plant columns 17ft/5.10 m high, with capitals of very varied form. Most of the columns have reliefs showing the Emperor Tiberius making offerings to the gods. The roof of the colonnade, part of which has collapsed, is decorated with stars and flying vultures. On the rear wall are two rows of reliefs depicting the Pharaoh, usually Augusts or Tiberius, dedicatin gifts to the gods. - From the colonnade a subterranean staircase leads down to a small Nilometer.

The East Colonnade is unfinished, only six of the planned 16 columns having been completed. The others are only rough-hewn and the capitals have been left unfinished. In the rear wall are five doors which led into various chapels.

Adjoining the S end of this colonnade is the badly ruined Temple of Eri-hems-nufer (Arsnuphis), built by Philopator and his Nubian contemporary Ergamenes and enlarged by Epiphanes.- practically nothing is left of a small chapel dedicated to the Nubian god Mndulis which stood behind the central part of the colonnade; but at the N end of the colonnade is a well-preserved little Temple of  Asclepius (Imhotep) built by Philadelphus.

The Temple of Isis, the principal temple of Philae, dedicated to Isis and her son Harpocrates, probably occupies the site of an earlier temple. It was begun by Ptolemy II Philadelphus and substantially completed by Euergetes I, although the embellishment of the temple with reliefs and inscriptions was a very gradual process which was never quite completed.

The first Pylon 150ft/45, 5 m wide and 60 ft/18 m high, consists of two towers and a central doorway which was decorated with reliefs by Nectanebo. On the front of the E tower is a huge figure of Ptolemy XII Neos Dionysos grasping a band of enemies by the hair and raising his club to smite them, with Isis, the falcon-headed Horus of Edfu and Hathor on the left. Above are two reliefs of Neos Dionysos presenting the crowns of Upper and Lower Egypt to Horus and Nephthys (right) and offering incense to Isis and Harpocrates (left). There are similar reliefs on the W tower; at the foot are demotic and Greek inscriptions. A doorway in this tower, with reliefs by Philometor, leads directly to the entrance to the birth-house(see below). In front of the pylon there originally stood two granite obelisks erected by Euergetes II and two granite lions.

Adjoining the E tower an elegant gateway has reliefs by Ptolemy II Philadelphus (on the lintel) and the Emperor Tiberius (on the jambs). The gateway, built by Philadelphus, originally stood in a brick wall.- the ascent of the pylon is well worth the effort; there is a winding staircase at the SE corner of the forecourt beyond the pylon. The rooms in the interior are undecorated and dark.

The central doorway, within which (on the right) is a French inscription (“an 7 de la Republiqu”)  commemorating Napoleon’s campaign and the pursuit of the Mamelukes by General Desaixin 1799, leads into the Forecourt , between the first and second pylons. On the rear wall of the first pylon are four priests with the sacred barque of Isis, preceded by the king burning incense. On the either side of the forecourt are small buildings fronted by colonnades. The one to the W, the Birth-House (mammisi), was dedicated to Hathor-Isis in honor of the birth of her son Horus. It is surrounded on all four sides by colonnades, the columns in which have foliage capitals surmounted by sistrum capitals. The walls, columns and screens between the columns are covered with reliefs and inscriptions, mostly by Euergetes II, Neos Dionysos, Augustus and Tiberius. Of particular interest are the reliefs in the last chamber, which depict scenes from the childhood of Horus, as falcon in swamps of Delta, Isis suckling Hours in the swamps, etc.

The small building to the E, opposite the birth-house, contained rooms for the priests and others which served some scientific purpose. The plant columns in the vestibule are notable for their elegant proportions. The reliefs and inscriptions are by Neos Dionysos, the dedicatory inscription on the architrave by Euergetes II. On the N side of the vestibule a door, approached by steps, gives access to the inner passage round the temple. The reliefs depict Neos Dionysos in presence of the gods.

The Second Pylon is 105ft/32m wide and 40 ft/12 m high. The reliefs on the central doorway are by Euergegtes II. On the lower part of the E tower is a large figure of Neos Dionysos dedicating the slaughtered sacrifical animals to hours and Hathor. Above are two small reliefs depicting the king presenting a garland to Hours and Nephthys (right) and offering incense to Osiris, Isis and Horus and pouring water on the altar (left). The natural granite at the foot of the tower has been smoothed to form a stela, with a six-line inscription and reliefs relating to a grant of land made by Philometor in the 24^th year of his reign (157 B.C.).

In front of it are the foundations of a small chapel. – the W tower has similar reliefs, which have been deliberately defaced. – the second pylon can be climbed by a staircase on the N side of the W tower, from the top of which it is possible to cross the central doorway to the E tower. – within the central doorway (on the right,above) are some much-faded Early Christian paintings.

Beyond the second pylon stands the Temple of Isis proper, which consists of a court, a vestibule, several antechambers and the sanctuary, together with some subsidiary chambers. The walls are covered, inside and out, with reliefs and inscriptions depicting various Ptolemies (Philadelphus,Euergets II, etc.) and roman Emperos(Augusts,Tiberius, Antoninus Pius) making offerings or performing other ritual acts. They are very similar to the reliefs in other temples of the period, particulary those of dendera and Edfu.

On each side of the court was a small colonnade with a single column. The court could be shaded from the sun by an awning; the holes for the cords can be seen on the upper part of the cavetto cornice facing the second pylon.

The Vestibule, with eight columns, was originally seoarated from the court by screens between the columns on the front. The conversation of the vestibule and court into a Christian church is recalled by Coptic crosses incised in the walls and a Greek inscription that “this good work” was done in the time of Bishop Theodore(during the reign of Justinian). Above the door is an inscription commemorating the archaeo-logical expedition sent to Philae in 1841 by Pope Gregory XVI.

A  number of antechambers flanked by dark side chambers lead into the Sanctuary, lit by two small windows, with a base (presented by Euergetes I and his wife Berenice) for the sacred barque bearing the image of Isis.- To the left of the first antechamber is a small room with reliefs of the king in the presence of  Isis. On the W side of this room is a door leading out of the temple; on the N side is a staircase leading to the roof of the sanctuary.

From the roof steps lead down to the Osiris Chambers,which contain fine reliefs relating to the death of Osiris.Vestibule, left-hand wall: the northern Nile god offers a libation of milk to the soul of Osirs, sitting before him in the form of a bird; the falcon-headed Hrendotes pours the water of consecration over the falcon –headed mummy of Osiris; behind,the god’s sisters; four demons, the god Shu and the Emperor Antoninus Pius(who built this chamber) before Osiris and his sisters Isis and Nephthys. Small main chamber, opposite door, middle row (from left to right): Isis and Nephthys at the bier of Osiris Onnophris (who is naked); the tomb of Osiris (head missing), with two kneeling goddesses; the doorway of the tomb, with a lion; four demons carrying the falcon-headed mummy of Osiris. Lower row (left to right ): the frog-headed Heqet and the falcon-headed Harsiesis at the bier of Osiris, under which are the canopic jars for his entrails; the body of Osiris among swamp plants, with a priest pouring the water of consecration; the dog-headed Anubis at the bier of Osiris, with Isis and Nephthys kneeling beside it.

NW of the second pylon is the small Gteway of Hrdrian, in the old enclosure wall of the temple. This, together with a much-ruined vestibule, was built in the reign of the Emperor Hadrian, Marcus Aurelius Verus. The gateway presumably led to the Sanctuary of Abaton on the neighboring island of Bigga, where there was Tomb of Osiris, and accordingly the reliefs relate to the cult of Osiris. On the lintel Hardrian is depicted making offerings to Osiris, Isis and Harsiesis and to Osiris, Nephthys and Harendotes; on the left-hand jamb is the sacred relic of Abydos, on the right-hand jamb the djed pillar of Osiris (the scared emblem of Busiris). Within the gateway, on the right (above), Mrcus Aurelius is depicted in the presence of Osiris and Isis (note the guide-lines for the artist); (below) Mrcus Aurelius making offerings of food, including grapes,and flowers to Isis.

The reliefs in the Vestibule, left unfinished and now ruinous, are of particular interest. Over the door in the S wall, above: Horus seated on a bench, with Nephthys and Isis presenting the crowns of lower and Upper Egypt; Thoth (LEFT) and Seshat, goddess of writing (right) inscribing the king’s name on a palm branch; behind Thoth sits the air god Shu, holding a sail, and behind him again anther  god and a goddess playing a lyre. Below: the tomb of Osiris at Abaton, with the body of Osiris borne by a crocodile; to the left Isis; above, the sun between mountains; and above the whole scene the sun, crescent moon and stars. All this lies within a small temple with a door on the left, in front of which are one small and two large pylons; to the right are rocks. To the left of the door are unfinished reliefs showing the king making grants of land; above are three lines in Meroitic cursive script.- On the right-hand wall (second top row) is a famous relief depicting the source of the Nile: the god of the Nile, with a snake entwined round his body, pours water from two jars under rocky crag on which are perched a vulture and a falcon. To the right of this is the soul of Osiris in the form of a bird within the sacred grove, worshiped by Hathor (left) and by Isis, Nephthys, Horus and Amun (right).

SW of Hadrian’s Gateway is Nilometer (inaccessible), which has the scale marked in hieratic and demotic as well as in the usual Coptic characters.- NW of the gateway can be seen the foundations of a Temple of Harendotes built by the Empror Claudius.

Some 55 yds/50 m E of the Temple of Isis we find the little Temple of Hathor, built by Philometor and Euergetes II in honor of Hathor-Aphrodite; the vestibule and the sanctuary (destroyed) were added by Augustus. The columns of the vestibule are decorated with charming reliefs: flute-players and harpists, Bes with a tambourine, Bes dancing and playing a harp, monkeys playing the lyre, priests bearing an antelope. Etc. on the screens between the columns Augustus is depicted making offerings to various personifications of Hthor. The best-preserved pert of the structure is the main temple chamber, on the front of which are two plant columns linked to the walls by screens.

SE of the temple of Hathor, on the bank of the river, is the most attractive little building on the island, the Kiosk of Trajan. As its name implies, it dates from the Roman Imperial period, but was left unfinished: the capitals of the plant columns were intended to be surmounted by sistrum capitals.

Various structures at the N end of Philae-in particular two Coptic churches and the remains of Coptic monastery, the ruins of a Temple of Augustus dating from the 18^th year of the Emperor's reign and the large Roman town gate to the NE-were left where they stood and not transferred to Agilka. It is hoped to recover them at a later date.

From the rocky neighboring island of Bigga (ancient Egyptian Senmet) there is a good view of Agilka and the temples of Philae. The principal deities of Bigga were the fire goddess Ups and Hathor. There are the remains of a colonnaded court belonging to a temple built by Ptolemy XII Neos Dionysos, with plant columns linked by screens. On the E side is a doorway with an apse built into it. –On this island there once stood the famous Abaton, the scared shrine containing the Tomb of Osiris.

Aswan and Kalabsha: see separate entries.